Classicists Tour The Bay Of Naples Over Half Term
During Half Term, 21 Classicists toured the Bay of Naples on a trip with as many different moments of interest and awe as the Classical subjects themselves have to offer the inquisitive mind.
Pompeii was the highlight for many, though dedicated fans of Caecilius were denied a view of his famous ‘hortus’ which was closed for preservation work. Nevertheless, the chance to roam free around an entire ancient city brought us into contact with the daily life of the ancients better than any written description or museum piece ever could. The Mediterranean sun beat down as we investigated the acoustic magic of the theatre, impressive public buildings, ornate houses and got a sense of the opulent and sometimes rather seedy life of those ancient city dwellers.
The nearby city of Herculaneum provided a contrast, both in the manner of its preservation (volcanic mud rather than ash) and the buildings themselves. Over 300 skeletons of people trying to shelter from the volcano in the harbour brought the horror of the catastrophe into focus. At the same time, we noticed the way in which the passing of time changes our level of emotional response to such tragedies.
A visit to the Archeological Museum in Naples filled in the gaps. Here we saw the many artistic treasures which were once in Pompeii and some fairly shocking art works too, in ‘il secreto gabinetto’ (the secret cabinet), not the sort of thing we would have on our walls at home nowadays!
A ferry ride across the wine-dark sea, to the glittering island of Capri allowed us to walk in the steps of movie stars from more glamourous eras, window shopping in the designer boutiques. Displays of ice-cream making, folk-music and Tarantella dancing as well as souvenir shopping and eating a lot of ice-cream made up the rest of our trip. Travelling everywhere on public transport was as much part of each day as the sites themselves and we experienced for ourselves how much the Italians love children. Imagine commuters in England being so delighted with a group of school children joining them on the morning train that they took the trouble to compliment the teachers on how lovely they were!
On the final day we ascended Mount Vesuvius, the only live volcano in mainland Europe, and walked around the crater. We were amazed to see that over 3 million people live in the mountain’s shadow.
Even with beautiful weather, striking geography, rich culture and the best food in the world, it was using a mixture of what I had learned in beginners’ Italian club with Ms Taibi, GCSE French and Latin to have conversations with real Neapolitans, including a primary school teacher on the train, and a very patient triage nurse in A and E, which was the best part for me. Talking with real people is the best way to be a traveler, rather than just a tourist, and the more you try, the easier it gets.
Allora, arrivederci e alla prossima!